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The Carnival celebration in New Orleans has of late years surpassed, in extent and grandeur, all similar events occurring either in Europe or this country. Beside it the carnivals of the Corso of Rome and the canals of Venice are tame affairs, lacking the exquisite order and organization with which the Americans have endowed it. Though frequently described in letters and by the public press, it yet has to be seen to be appreciated, and few enjoy that privilege once without thereafter making an annual pilgrimage to the Crescent City during its festive season. Few understand the admirable and thorough system of organization, through which alone such grand successes can be achieved—a system as complete in its little way as that of an army or an established government. In fact, it does embrace a phantom government, ruled over by the mythical Rex, whose reign is absolute for twenty-four hours, during which his flag is alone permitted to fly, and whose edicts are as implicitly obeyed as were those of an Alexander or a Nero. The central power is contributed to and supported by several secret sooieties, each independent within itself, but all co-operating to a single end. Outside of Rex's court there are other and some older secret associations, such as the Mistick Krewe, the Twelfth Night Revelers, the Knights of Momus, etc. Each of these has its own distinct gala night devoted to its street procession and its tableau balls. ~ ~ ~ As the eventful day, or rather night, approaches nearer, everybody is at work—some preparing the lights for the procession, some engaging horses, others drilling the torch bearers, who are forced to discharge their duties with military precision; others arranging matters with the authorities, so that the streets will be in order and all obstructions removed—all this being accomplished with such thorough system and secrecy that not until the display is actually upon the street, are the public aware of either its subject or where it will first appear. A few days prior to the great event the boxes containing the costumes and other properties are moved at dead of night to some building in the immediate vicinity of the yards where the floats have been prepared. The front of this building, generally a warehouse, is kept closed and the windows darkened. Temporary entrances are improvised by outting through the wall into adjoining houses, so that it can be reached from two or three different streets by members of the association, who alone are in the secret. The processions usually move about 9 o'clock at night, but as early as 2 p.m., upon the appointed day, the members commence straggling into the Den, all in full evening dress. This they remove and deposit in their numbered boxes in place of the costume in which they array themselves. About 7 o'clock in the evening, when all are dressed, the roll is called; the characters take their places in line, and a final inspection takes place. About this time a squad of police arrives upon the scene, and after clearing the street in front of the building, cordon all the cross streets for four or five squares. Into the left of this reserve space shortly file the torch-bearers under guidance of officers, who silently take up the places along the curbs for the entire distance. In a few moments the floats follow and drive in regular order up to the door of the warehouse. When the first arrives the hitherto sealed doors are thrown open, and a long bridge is run out over the sidewalk. As the captain calls the numbers each man steps out and takes his appointed place upon the floats, which are driven off expeditiously until all are in line. The bands are then marched to position, and everything is in order in a remarkably short space of time. The proceedings, so far, have been conducted in utter darkness. The captain then rides rapidly along the lines, and, finding everything in order, gives an appointed signal. In a moment all the torches flash out into a blazing parallelogram of light, securely inclosing the procession, and guarded outside at regular intervals by the police, who have quietly taken up position. The procession marches rapidly until it reaches the nearest prominent thoroughfare, when the bands strike up, the bombs explode, the rockets fly, and port fires of every oolor blaze brilliantly along the line, over which hangs a heavy cloud of smoke, reflecting the many-hued tints of a monstrous fantastically illuminated canopy, which lends an indescribable weirdness to the unnatural, yet artistic scene. After traversing the route appointed, which is generally short and hemmed in by throngs of admiring and wonder-stricken people, the floats finally arrive at the stage-door of the Opera House, where they unload their living freight, and drive rapidly away in the darkness. Meanwhile the boxes containing the clothing of the members have been taken by express wagons to the Opera House, and are all arranged in order in the dressing rooms. The tableaux generally occupy the time up to 11 o'clock, after which the characters are permitted to mingle with the guests upon the dancing floor, under no restrictions save that of keeping their individuality unrevealed. Precisely at 12 o'clock the captain's shrill whistle sounds, and from that moment they gradually disappear, until long before the next hour strikes every one has vanished and the members are mingling unnoticed among the guests, save where they are occassionally found explaining their absence for the day to unsuspecting wives or daughters, with the most unconscionable excuses. They have merely slipped into the dressing rooms, exchanged their costume for ordinary everyday dress, and long before the ball closes in the wee small hours the express wagons have carried the entire paraphernalia back to the den and packed it away securely. When the actor gets up in the morning it is all over, as fleeting and illusive as the dreams from which he wakes. |
Mardi Gras, 1885 |
Excerpted from the book, "Historical Sketch Book and Guide to New Orleans and Environs," edited by Will Coleman, published in 1885. |